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How To Convert Half Bath To Full Bath In Basement?

    How to Convert Half Bath To Full Bath In Basement?

    Although you adore your current residence, do you wish you had a larger bathroom? Are you contemplating a complete bathroom conversion from a half bath? Many householders do so for various reasons, including increasing the value of their property, accommodating an aging parent, or accommodating an expanding family. Remodelling and designing the area required to adjust all essential bathroom fixtures can be complex. So, how to convert half bath to full bath in basement?

    Do You Have Enough Space?

    Since most half baths lack the space to accommodate a complete bath and shower, to enlarge one, one must either have expandable space or a more compact configuration with only a battery, which would be a quarter bath, as previously stated. One potential solution is to utilize an existing wardrobe or a portion of an adjacent room to enlarge the area. A permit will likely be required for this form of expansion.

    Half Bath/Full Bath—What’s The Difference?

    A powder room, also known as a half bathroom, is a restroom with a minimum of two fixtures, typically a sink and a commode. It is generally a minor location near high-traffic areas such as the living room or kitchen. The half lavatory, which comprises a toilet, sink, and shower, is a choice. At least three fixtures include a full bathroom, tub, shower, basin, and toilet. In most residences, a minimum of one complete bath is provided, with the inclusion of a half bath being more frequently contingent upon the dimensions of the dwelling. Numerous individuals allocate a full bathroom in a centrally situated area of their residence, supplemented by an additional half bathroom in their main bedroom.

    How To Convert Half Bath To Full Bath In Basement?

    For this discussion, disregarding extravagant embellishments and additional features, the focus should be solely on the fixtures in the restroom, as fixtures correspond to functionality.

    Materials And Tools:

    • 8′ 2x4s (20)
    • Pedestal sink
    • Sand (6 bags)
    • Plumbing Fixtures
    • Shower
    • Green Board (2 sheets)
    • Adjustable Wrench
    • Caulking Gun
    • Drill
    • Electric Mitre Saw
    • Gloves
    • Pipe Wrench
    • Soldering Torch
    • Utility Knife
    • Jackhammer
    • Hole Saw
    • Paddle Drill Bit
    • Air Compressor And Hoses
    • Finish Nailer
    • Safety Glasses

    Steps To Convert Half Bath To Full Bath

    1. Install the closet door wall and the lavatory wall as a starting point. Ensure that the bathroom wall is only trimmed to the desired shower aperture. Preserve the sink side of the remaining wall. Demo the wall carefully by marking the area to be demonstrated and then cutting clear lines and edges with a circular and reciprocating saw, respectively. You must turn off the water supply to the room before relocating the sink.
    2. A water shutoff valve should be located beneath the sink. If not, proceed to the basement and turn off the house’s water supply. Unplug the plumbing using an adjustable wrench and basin wrench. Countertop and base cabinet detach from the wall using screws and remove.
    3. Framing the new end wall enclosing the shower is the following phase. Consult the instructions included with your shower unit and control valve to ascertain the precise whereabouts of the wall studs. One or more might require notching to accommodate the valve body and waterlines. After aligning the new wall with a level, firmly fasten it to the floor and ceiling joists with nails. Drywalled reconstruction of the demoed closet door wall will be necessary once the new shower has been installed.
    4. Determine the precise location of the shower outflow by consulting the installation instructions. Also included in the manufacturer’s instructions should be the drain line’s elevation relative to the finished floor. The drain and trap are composed of conduit and fittings, which are cut and dry-assembled. Remember that 1/16 inch per foot of travel is the standard downward pitch for waste lines emanating from a fixture.
    5. The instructions for the shower valve should specify the dimensions of the required copper fittings and the unit’s location. Copper conduit is joined to these components via soldering, also known as sweating.
    6. additional support must be provided when installing a fiberglass shower under the shower floor. It will deform while standing on the floor but will likely never break otherwise. On the subfloor, position a 2-inch-deep circle of grit for support. Sand should be kept at a distance of four to five inches from the drain orifice.
    7. Insert the shower into its aperture and attach the drain after the sand is positioned. Follow the instructions provided by the shower manufacturer when connecting the receptacle. Some back-and-forth movement of the unit may be required to ensure it settles into the sediment. After confirming the team is level and plumb, drill a pilot hole through the mounting flanges and secure it to the structural members using nails or screws.
    8. Apply a bead of silicone caulk to the joint surface before positioning the dome over the shower and securing it with fasteners if a dome top is installed.
    9. Building a soffit will conceal the area above the shower, number nine. A straightforward soffit like a ladder, which spans the front of the rain and extends the lip of the roof’s dome to the ceiling, will suffice.
    10. Drill a hole through the shower wall for the showerhead arm, then thread the arm into the wing elbow to complete the installation. Tape this threaded joint with Teflon to prevent leakage.
    11. Install the rubber caulking gasket that seals the drain to the waste pipes to finish the shower drain assembly. Following the compression of the gasket by the threaded fastener, adhere the gasket over the line. It would be best to use screwdrivers and the shower device’s wrench to tighten the trim ring. Install the knob and escutcheon to the shower control valve to complete the process.
    12. Before installing drywall, turn on the water to the shower and inspect the plumbing for any leakage.
    13. Proceed with installing water-resistant drywall on the end wall, soffit, and any other compromised areas after verifying the absence of leakage. Aim to space the drywall approximately 1/8 inch away from the shower to create a seamless sealant joint. Apply the final tape to the drywall. Prime and paint the entire room once the other tasks have been completed. Seal all surfaces adjacent to the shower with clear or white silicone sealant.
    14. The pedestal sink must be secured to the wall behind it using a fastener into a substantial object. Employ a stud locator to identify the wall studs that flank the plumbing lines. In the absence of studs, engage robust wall anchors.
    15. Position the basin and pedestal without constraint, and use 2x4s to stabilize the basin. Ensure the sink is levelled from left to right and front to rear. Indicate the precise placement of the mounting openings for the inlet and pedestal on the wall. Assign openings corresponding to the fasteners you intend to use and the marks. Proceed with the assembly of the faucet and drain on the basin. You must connect the water supply lines to the faucet. Reinstall the basin and pedestal, but only secure the bay with bolts. Carefully tighten the fasteners so as to prevent the sink from cracking. Then, while a few 2x4s support the receptacle, remove the pedestal from beneath it.
    16. Conclude the installation of the drain and water supply line and conduct a leak test. Apply Teflon tape to the leaking areas and re-secure the fittings.
    17. Reinstall the pedestal in its intended location and fix it to the floor using bolts. Before installing the pedestal, apply adhesive caulk to both the top and bottom if it is not designed to be connected with floor fasteners. Apply caulk to the sink’s junction with the wall. Run your finger over the bead while moistening to integrate and smooth the bead.

    Costs Of Code And Spacing Requirements

    Assuming that a permit is necessary for bath renovations in your municipality, the expenses associated with converting a half bath to a whole will comprise both the permit charge and the cost of bringing the entire bathroom up to code.

    It may be necessary to upgrade electrical outlets (and circuits) and lighting, and you will likely require an enormous vent fan to exhaust the shower’s moisture.

    Insufficient adherence to contemporary standards in the existing room may substantially escalate the project cost due to the need to accommodate minimum floor area and fixture spacing requirements.

    Adding a bathtub necessitates, by local building codes, an additional 30 inches of unobstructed space along the open side of the tub in addition to the standard dimensions of 32 by 60 inches.

    In addition to performing more efficiently, full baths with stowage for bathing supplies (towels, hair products, lotions, etc.) are perceived as having a higher value. At the very least, it provides additional room for a linen cupboard, a more oversized vanity, or freestanding storage furniture.

    Basement renovation of a half-bath to a full-bath requires meticulous preparation. Prioritizing appropriate plumbing, optimizing space utilization, and adhering to building codes are critical. By skilfully integrating a shower or toilet and ensuring adequate ventilation, the basement’s functionality is significantly improved, enhancing its value and facilitating a space transformation.

    Thank you for reading……

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